ETHEREAL MOMENTUM

It has always been some fashion reviewers chattering how London Fashion Week lets them down by complaining the endless use of prints. However, Mary Katrantzou did prove them wrong this time by providing us a spectacularly gorgeous collection. 

Despite the strong, stiff experimental shapes - often resembling deconstructed geisha costumes, with origami-like panels of printed material bound with industrial belts.It seems that Mary Katrantzou shifted away from the prints and color palette that have contributed to her meteoric rise, to a strong focus on shape and silhouette. Inspired by Edward Steichen's and Alfred Stieglitz's photographs, we can probably sense the impressionistic tone of their black and white photos. Katrantzou took full advantage of her remarkable techniques of pattern and cuttings to reengineer nature effectively. 

Not to mention more about the blossom-laden tree print with the midst moonlight, or the amazing Perforation technique of Zen scenery, Katrantzou's option for the architecture of asymmetry and contrast are the major events of this collection. A series of ethereal and slightly melancholic Origami dresses, a black mohair dress patterned with white woven lace evoking the graphic latticework of an iron bridge, a long black leather dress with cape sleeves embossed with graphics derived from a city scape print, intarsia knits glistening with iridescent prints, and a structured black jacquard suit with a shadowy pattern of trees. While less catchy than past seasons, the collection was impressive in its artisanal handiwork. It is clear Katrantzou is looking to strip back in order to evolve, but she has to be careful not to stray too far from her brand identity.

RAF'S SECRET GARDEN

When Raf Simons read Christian Dior's autobiography during his summer break in Puglia, he found unexpected parallels with his own state of mind, particularly in Dior's love of the countryside, the garden he would retreat to, the flowers he grew there. There may have been snow on the ground in Paris's Jardin des Tuileries, but inside Dior's nearly invisible mirrored tent, Spring was in full bloom.

The models, with their pixie-cut hair, airy swagger, and glittering red lips, called to mind a flittering wood nymph. Soon more nymphs arrived; most wore sleekly corseted gowns that exploded from the waist in dramatic, full flares or asymmetrically draped folds. In pastel silk, iridescent organza, or whisper-weight chiffon, everything felt softly natural yet utterly restrained — even as more elaborate looks like floral embroidered jackets, voluminous cocoon coats, and bubble-hemmed dresses covered in sparkling petal appliqué began to appear.

Some may like to compare this collection with those by Galliano, claiming they represent two distinctly different perceptions of Haute Couture. From my personal perspectives, Raf did make his moment which turns most of Galliano’s collections pale to some extent. Haute Couture, which refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing specifically for the wearer’s measurements and body stance, has been added a little bit too much redundant elements by mountains of designers. Large scales of complex drapes as well as monotonous so-called dramatic silhouettes, gradually makes Haute Couture overcostumey while unflattering to wear. Raf in this way, makes a wise choice, finding a new and refreshing approach to express his perceptions on Dior and Couture. Instead of showing off a powerful and unconstrained style, Raf draws more attention to reconstruct the restrained passion by specializing in the innovative silhouettes and details. Moreover, he has spoken about bringing more reality to couture. It would be a miracle if he didn't feel that way. The pants, the pockets in skirts—they were all part of that.

"The collection reflects the passing of time of the season, beginning as the signs of early life," the show notes explained. "Silhouettes are in flux, seemingly finding their own forms naturally and yet all expertly tended to and under control." Like a well-manicured garden under the tentative warmth of early Spring — or maybe like Raf Simons's intoxicating updates on classic Dior.The collection was a spectacular tour de force. One that revealed Simons to be a designer who is respectful of the house’s heritage but also more than capable of giving it a modern renaissance.

Runway: Beehives Haute Couture: Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 RTW

Designers have found inspiration in stranger places than beehives, the contents of which gave Sarah Burton a direction for the Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 collection.

There were references to bees all over these clothes, from the beekeeper's hats the models wore down the runway to the honeycomb shaped lace Burton applied to those hats and a number of pieces in the collection. A number of garments — dresses, shirts, and jackets included — demonstrated a clever use of the wasp waist. When could it be more appropriate to revive this McQueen trope than in a collection inspired by bees?

Yes, the inspiration here came across literally, but the clothing certainly didn't suffer for it. Even the black and gold color palette that dominated the show came off as charming rather than thematic, especially in several suits made from a honeycomb jacquard. The final gowns here were dramatic as always, many of them accented by hoopskirts that were either layered on top or barely hidden by sheer fabrics or cloth flowers.

source: style.com

Runway: Tribute or Cliche? Saint Laurent Paris Spring 2013

"I want everything!" this is what the supermodel Kate Moss's exalted reaction after the show by Hedi.Since a large number of editors and faithful fans of the great Master Saint Laurent around have profoundly set a high value on the show by Hedi, the other side, however, poles apart, discussing that the tribute show is more likely a re-edition combining of Frida Giannini's GUCCI and even a absolute cliche.

When discussing the show, one cannot but admits that ultimately the graceful streamlines superimposed with Hedi's glacial attitude recur to the suffocating elegance by Master Saint Laurent.The show DOES evoke the irreplaceable Age of innocent Fashion Dream, its achievements were revisited here.

Classic LeSmoking paid tribute to Master Saint Laurent or seemingly the high line of MANGO?

getting a déjà vu?

It's been impossible to ignore the media-fanned flames of the Raf-Hedi face-off.

Hedi Slimane or Raf Simons? 

There are a thousand Hamlets in a thousand people's eyes.

Runway: Miuccia's Impossible Dream: PRADA Spring 2013

 

 

While anti-Japan riots continue on intimate terms in China, our queen of fashion Miuccia Prada has accomplished presenting her Spring 2013 Ready-to-wear collection, which extensively contains Japanese-style elements to the world. "Dream is forbidden, nostalgia is forbidden, to be too sweet is not good. Everything we used to feel historically, now you can't enjoy. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream." Miuccia Prada said so.

A black satin coat, meanwhile, was embroidered with papery origami blossoms. Still, the collection had a spareness that worked like a balm after seasons of endless prints, moving from dark to light.

There was POETRY to the collection, but walking the runway in either towering Harajuku girl platforms or leather judo socks bound with patent leather bows—flats in both cases, Prada pointed out—the models exuded power too. Leave it to Miuccia to tweak nostalgia into something that felt modern and new.

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Judas' picks: Favorite of the 2013 Spring RTW New York Fashion Week - Runways

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Alexander Wang  Mere seconds after the overheads dimmed toward the end of the show and the black lights switched on to reveal that the models' white clothes glowed an electric shade of yellow, Twitterers took to their iPhones to share their pictures. Wang is just about as It as you can get in New York fashion at the moment, and he delivered on his reputation, sending out a focused Spring collection that put his strong, singular vision on display. A powerful PERFORMANCE it is!

BCBG Max Azria Lengths were relatively long, even where they were sliced into high slits; the interplay of sheers and embroidery let snips of bare flesh show through. Those dresses themselves, fluttering and ethereal, some sporting cape backs and leather details, should be RECOGNIZABLE to BCBG's cadre of fans. The workwear element introduced by chambray blouses and oversize jackets in silk cotton canvas, less so, even if fashion watchers may sniff references to other collections.

LOUISE GOLDIN The collection itself has a certain clinical space age sporty vibe. In a color palette of sandy gold, teal and crisp white, the designer played with layers of color blocking in easy knit pieces that looked like you could just slip them on and walk out the door.

LACOSTE From what showed up on the runway it seemed like Felipe Oliveira Baptista took real pleasure in playing with those prints.  So to a thumping backbeat of tennis balls being thwack across a court, he showed a series of clever repetitive prints. Full cut trousers, oversized t-shirts, and that perennial urban favorite- the jogging suit- all made their way down the pristine white catwalk.It’s a testament to Baptista’s talent that he was even able to make fanny packs look stylish. This collection was a SERIOUS love match.

THOM BROWNE In a Fashion Week where multiple designers’ shows are often double—or triple—booked every hour on the hour, how does one STAND out? Just ask Thom Browne.

And water runs downstream. His spring women’s show, held at the New York Public Library, was not only a continuation of the men’s show he staged in Paris, but true performance art. “Thom needs a museum show,” was the comment heard from more than one guest.

PROENZA SCHOULER This collection certainly was EDGY- energetic too.The designer Frenetic really, in its use of hard city colors like fire engine red, acid green, neon blue and oil slick black that came in a patchwork mash up of textural fabrics on sporty shift dresses, boxy jackets cut from glossy leathers and snakeskin or low slung photo print skirts.

Ralph Lauren All the elements were there—beaded boleros, organza vests with gold embroidery and embellished jodhpur pants, festive fedoras, colorful silk scarves worn around the necks and even a rose on the hip. 

Jeremy Scott One NEVER really knows what to expect at a Jeremy Scott show. Superb as it has always been.

also including Rag & Bone, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Calvin Klein Collection...