RAF'S SECRET GARDEN

When Raf Simons read Christian Dior's autobiography during his summer break in Puglia, he found unexpected parallels with his own state of mind, particularly in Dior's love of the countryside, the garden he would retreat to, the flowers he grew there. There may have been snow on the ground in Paris's Jardin des Tuileries, but inside Dior's nearly invisible mirrored tent, Spring was in full bloom.

The models, with their pixie-cut hair, airy swagger, and glittering red lips, called to mind a flittering wood nymph. Soon more nymphs arrived; most wore sleekly corseted gowns that exploded from the waist in dramatic, full flares or asymmetrically draped folds. In pastel silk, iridescent organza, or whisper-weight chiffon, everything felt softly natural yet utterly restrained — even as more elaborate looks like floral embroidered jackets, voluminous cocoon coats, and bubble-hemmed dresses covered in sparkling petal appliqué began to appear.

Some may like to compare this collection with those by Galliano, claiming they represent two distinctly different perceptions of Haute Couture. From my personal perspectives, Raf did make his moment which turns most of Galliano’s collections pale to some extent. Haute Couture, which refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing specifically for the wearer’s measurements and body stance, has been added a little bit too much redundant elements by mountains of designers. Large scales of complex drapes as well as monotonous so-called dramatic silhouettes, gradually makes Haute Couture overcostumey while unflattering to wear. Raf in this way, makes a wise choice, finding a new and refreshing approach to express his perceptions on Dior and Couture. Instead of showing off a powerful and unconstrained style, Raf draws more attention to reconstruct the restrained passion by specializing in the innovative silhouettes and details. Moreover, he has spoken about bringing more reality to couture. It would be a miracle if he didn't feel that way. The pants, the pockets in skirts—they were all part of that.

"The collection reflects the passing of time of the season, beginning as the signs of early life," the show notes explained. "Silhouettes are in flux, seemingly finding their own forms naturally and yet all expertly tended to and under control." Like a well-manicured garden under the tentative warmth of early Spring — or maybe like Raf Simons's intoxicating updates on classic Dior.The collection was a spectacular tour de force. One that revealed Simons to be a designer who is respectful of the house’s heritage but also more than capable of giving it a modern renaissance.

Street Style: girls in RED

Red can symbolize many things; from blood, to love, to infatuation.  Basically red symbolizes strong emotions, or things of strong emotions rather than intellectual ideas.  For example, red can symbolize excitement, energy, speed, strength, danger, passion, and aggression.

According to Henry Dreyfus, it is popularly felt that red, the color of blood and fire, represents life and vitality. Red also signifies the color of the sun: a symbol of energy, radiating its vitalizing life-force into human beings. 

1. Pace Wu in Valentino red dress

2. Ursina Gysi in Junior Gaultier red sweater

3.showgoers in red sweater

4. Sofia Sanchez in Valentino red dress

5.showgoers in red dress

Runway: Beehives Haute Couture: Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 RTW

Designers have found inspiration in stranger places than beehives, the contents of which gave Sarah Burton a direction for the Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 collection.

There were references to bees all over these clothes, from the beekeeper's hats the models wore down the runway to the honeycomb shaped lace Burton applied to those hats and a number of pieces in the collection. A number of garments — dresses, shirts, and jackets included — demonstrated a clever use of the wasp waist. When could it be more appropriate to revive this McQueen trope than in a collection inspired by bees?

Yes, the inspiration here came across literally, but the clothing certainly didn't suffer for it. Even the black and gold color palette that dominated the show came off as charming rather than thematic, especially in several suits made from a honeycomb jacquard. The final gowns here were dramatic as always, many of them accented by hoopskirts that were either layered on top or barely hidden by sheer fabrics or cloth flowers.

source: style.com

Runway: Tribute or Cliche? Saint Laurent Paris Spring 2013

"I want everything!" this is what the supermodel Kate Moss's exalted reaction after the show by Hedi.Since a large number of editors and faithful fans of the great Master Saint Laurent around have profoundly set a high value on the show by Hedi, the other side, however, poles apart, discussing that the tribute show is more likely a re-edition combining of Frida Giannini's GUCCI and even a absolute cliche.

When discussing the show, one cannot but admits that ultimately the graceful streamlines superimposed with Hedi's glacial attitude recur to the suffocating elegance by Master Saint Laurent.The show DOES evoke the irreplaceable Age of innocent Fashion Dream, its achievements were revisited here.

Classic LeSmoking paid tribute to Master Saint Laurent or seemingly the high line of MANGO?

getting a déjà vu?

It's been impossible to ignore the media-fanned flames of the Raf-Hedi face-off.

Hedi Slimane or Raf Simons? 

There are a thousand Hamlets in a thousand people's eyes.