ETHEREAL MOMENTUM

It has always been some fashion reviewers chattering how London Fashion Week lets them down by complaining the endless use of prints. However, Mary Katrantzou did prove them wrong this time by providing us a spectacularly gorgeous collection. 

Despite the strong, stiff experimental shapes - often resembling deconstructed geisha costumes, with origami-like panels of printed material bound with industrial belts.It seems that Mary Katrantzou shifted away from the prints and color palette that have contributed to her meteoric rise, to a strong focus on shape and silhouette. Inspired by Edward Steichen's and Alfred Stieglitz's photographs, we can probably sense the impressionistic tone of their black and white photos. Katrantzou took full advantage of her remarkable techniques of pattern and cuttings to reengineer nature effectively. 

Not to mention more about the blossom-laden tree print with the midst moonlight, or the amazing Perforation technique of Zen scenery, Katrantzou's option for the architecture of asymmetry and contrast are the major events of this collection. A series of ethereal and slightly melancholic Origami dresses, a black mohair dress patterned with white woven lace evoking the graphic latticework of an iron bridge, a long black leather dress with cape sleeves embossed with graphics derived from a city scape print, intarsia knits glistening with iridescent prints, and a structured black jacquard suit with a shadowy pattern of trees. While less catchy than past seasons, the collection was impressive in its artisanal handiwork. It is clear Katrantzou is looking to strip back in order to evolve, but she has to be careful not to stray too far from her brand identity.

2012 (It Ain't The End)

Asymmetric Blocking Shirt: own designed

Metallic Candy Clutch: Maison Martin Margiela with H&M

Metallic Shoes: tomonari.co.kr

Animal Prints Acetate Sunglasses: Online Shop

For Fall/Winter 1992, Gianni Versace presented his Bondage collection, which has been so far regarded as the sexiest garments imaginable as worn on the runway by the greatest of supermodels.Without hesitation, the collection strongly impresses me and inspires me to put together a new look which is also added drapes,futurism，and structure elements.

 

Inspiration Gianni Versace F/W 1992 Bondage Collection, Vintage Versace, Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2012, street style pics in Rick Owens, Blown-away street style pic by Tommy Ton, Judas,Single Seam Wedding Gown by Cristobal Balenciaga

For the major long black shirt, I wanted it to be a contrasting textures combination that seemed ethereal but also structure. Thus, I selected twill spandex fabric as the main structure, asymmetrically blocking patent leather, and Jamaica knit with swallow gird patterns.The patent leather part keeps the structure of the garment, while the knit and the spandex fabric enable it to be soft and ethereal.

For the details, I chose a classic golden Versace button as the collar button. Moreover, in order to maintain the wholeness of the whole garment, all the buttons were made invisible snaps, while surprisingly with asymmetric elements.

Street Style: COMME on Des Garçons!

Those outta spacious pieces from the Fall/Winter 2012 collections are surly still fresh in our mind! Especially, the conceptually incredible collection of Comme Des Garçons.To think from a different angle, however,there was a time when I was wondering who was gonna wear those cutout paper-dolliness pieces on the streets?! You may say "It must be Lady GaGa of course!" The fact just goes like this, but not entirely right!As to my astonishment, the first celebrity to wear the pieces from the collections was Taylor Tomasi Hill at NY Fashion Week, choosing a blue graphic parse shorts matching with a easy chic shirt, which completely changed my perspectives on the collection—— dramatic pieces are not only dramatic but also can be so effortless as well! Then it came to more fashionistas like Anna Dello Russo, Hanne Gaby Odiele,and Michelle Elie wearing the outfits from the collection with their distinct style, COMME on Des Garçons!

Taylor Tomasi Hill

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Taylor Tomasi Hill

Michelle Elie

pics credit:

Tommy Ton @style.com

Phil Oh @Vogue.com

Runway: Miuccia's Impossible Dream: PRADA Spring 2013

 

 

While anti-Japan riots continue on intimate terms in China, our queen of fashion Miuccia Prada has accomplished presenting her Spring 2013 Ready-to-wear collection, which extensively contains Japanese-style elements to the world. "Dream is forbidden, nostalgia is forbidden, to be too sweet is not good. Everything we used to feel historically, now you can't enjoy. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream." Miuccia Prada said so.

A black satin coat, meanwhile, was embroidered with papery origami blossoms. Still, the collection had a spareness that worked like a balm after seasons of endless prints, moving from dark to light.

There was POETRY to the collection, but walking the runway in either towering Harajuku girl platforms or leather judo socks bound with patent leather bows—flats in both cases, Prada pointed out—the models exuded power too. Leave it to Miuccia to tweak nostalgia into something that felt modern and new.

pics from Style.com