RAF'S SECRET GARDEN

When Raf Simons read Christian Dior's autobiography during his summer break in Puglia, he found unexpected parallels with his own state of mind, particularly in Dior's love of the countryside, the garden he would retreat to, the flowers he grew there. There may have been snow on the ground in Paris's Jardin des Tuileries, but inside Dior's nearly invisible mirrored tent, Spring was in full bloom.

The models, with their pixie-cut hair, airy swagger, and glittering red lips, called to mind a flittering wood nymph. Soon more nymphs arrived; most wore sleekly corseted gowns that exploded from the waist in dramatic, full flares or asymmetrically draped folds. In pastel silk, iridescent organza, or whisper-weight chiffon, everything felt softly natural yet utterly restrained — even as more elaborate looks like floral embroidered jackets, voluminous cocoon coats, and bubble-hemmed dresses covered in sparkling petal appliqué began to appear.

Some may like to compare this collection with those by Galliano, claiming they represent two distinctly different perceptions of Haute Couture. From my personal perspectives, Raf did make his moment which turns most of Galliano’s collections pale to some extent. Haute Couture, which refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing specifically for the wearer’s measurements and body stance, has been added a little bit too much redundant elements by mountains of designers. Large scales of complex drapes as well as monotonous so-called dramatic silhouettes, gradually makes Haute Couture overcostumey while unflattering to wear. Raf in this way, makes a wise choice, finding a new and refreshing approach to express his perceptions on Dior and Couture. Instead of showing off a powerful and unconstrained style, Raf draws more attention to reconstruct the restrained passion by specializing in the innovative silhouettes and details. Moreover, he has spoken about bringing more reality to couture. It would be a miracle if he didn't feel that way. The pants, the pockets in skirts—they were all part of that.

"The collection reflects the passing of time of the season, beginning as the signs of early life," the show notes explained. "Silhouettes are in flux, seemingly finding their own forms naturally and yet all expertly tended to and under control." Like a well-manicured garden under the tentative warmth of early Spring — or maybe like Raf Simons's intoxicating updates on classic Dior.The collection was a spectacular tour de force. One that revealed Simons to be a designer who is respectful of the house’s heritage but also more than capable of giving it a modern renaissance.

Runway: Tribute or Cliche? Saint Laurent Paris Spring 2013

"I want everything!" this is what the supermodel Kate Moss's exalted reaction after the show by Hedi.Since a large number of editors and faithful fans of the great Master Saint Laurent around have profoundly set a high value on the show by Hedi, the other side, however, poles apart, discussing that the tribute show is more likely a re-edition combining of Frida Giannini's GUCCI and even a absolute cliche.

When discussing the show, one cannot but admits that ultimately the graceful streamlines superimposed with Hedi's glacial attitude recur to the suffocating elegance by Master Saint Laurent.The show DOES evoke the irreplaceable Age of innocent Fashion Dream, its achievements were revisited here.

Classic LeSmoking paid tribute to Master Saint Laurent or seemingly the high line of MANGO?

getting a déjà vu?

It's been impossible to ignore the media-fanned flames of the Raf-Hedi face-off.

Hedi Slimane or Raf Simons? 

There are a thousand Hamlets in a thousand people's eyes.

Runway: BIGGER is better

Bigger is better...Nowadays it seems that fashion desginers like to focus more on the shapes as well as searching for innovative clothing fabrics.As a result, overspread from womens to menswear,  AIRTEXTURE COCOON clothings made of different fabrics+ SHORTS sturdy looks will exactly become the new trend in the coming season. We can imagine bloggers wearing BIG outside the catwalk~ 

Style Code: wear glass ON

   

     Throughout the most recent runaway we can see a increasingly trendier fabric, transparent PVC—— appear not only in accessories, but also clothings and it absolutely will become a trend tide during the upcoming seasons. While being astonished by the progressively creative ideas from the designers, it's time for us to arm ourselves with those fascinating pieces—— wear glass ON!

transparent PVC details from JIL SANDER 2012 S/S men's collection

 

Brogue Shoes with transparent heels from Jeffrey Campbell 

 

 Leather High heels with transparent Heels from ZARA

 Simone Rocha Heels + Alexander McQueen Plastic Shorts

UNKNOWN TRANSPARENT PVC Shoes and Blazer..(AMAZING!)

 

 transparent cuffs tutorial

Aisling Farrell at Central Saint Martins BA 2012

mixing plastic with bubble dots..amusement!