F A S H I O N & F C U K E R: September 2012

Sunday, September 30, 2012

Runway: Unforgettable 80s: Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2013

Gaultier's tribute to the 80s opened with Grace Jones, stepping straight off the Nightclubbing album cover in variations of the designer's tuxedo looks. Then came Hannelore Knuts as Annie Lennox in her "Sweet Dreams" incarnation, or, in actuality, a pinstriped Gaultier pantsuit. Next, Madonna, and that iconic cone bra attached to a black pencil skirt. So far, so true to Gaultier's own design sensibility. But when Karlie Kloss stepped out as Boy George, a meta disconnect kicked in and the show never really recovered as a coherent fashion statement. It continued to thrive, however, as an entertainment.

There were some gorgeous and witty pieces—the Orientalism of a pleated A-line bustier gown, the trompe l'oeil printed denims, the black raffia sheath—but the fashion was subsumed by the concept. It peaked—or troughed—with the ABBA bit. Within seconds, Karlie Kloss was trolling the catwalk in a barely-there metallic blue outfit that unwittingly conveyed the notion of things falling apart. The Euro-disco legend Amanda Lear was the vedette of the finale. Her appearance thrilled the locals but left everyone else vaguely perplexed. In a way, a perfect metaphor for the collection: the familiar and the incomprehensible, meeting but not matching.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Street Style: Flowing Floral on the streets - Milan Spring 2013 Fashion Week

"UN VIAGGIO ROMANTICO A MILANO!"

A warm greeting from Milan, the most poetic along the Mediterranean Sea,the place where you can immerse yourself into the mellow beauty of Rococo style.Let the arbitrary floral blossom freely in mind.

pics credit:

Tommy Ton @Style.com

Phil Oh @Vogue.com

Victoria Adamson @New York Magazine The Cut

DOLCE & GABBANA dress and bag

Elisa Nalin in DVF dress

Balenciaga skirt

Prada clutch

Jessica Stein at DOLCE & GABBANA

Nicole Warne in DOLCE & GABBANA

Veronika Heilbrunner in Erdem dress

Julia Sarr Jamois in Celine shirt

Anna Dello Russo

Alexandra Benenti in Jil Sander skirt

at DOLCE & GABBANA

Stella McCartney top

JIMMY CHOO clutch

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Street Style: Spring 2013 RTW London Fashion Week

Differs a LOT from New York Fashion Week, season upon season, the focus on London fashion week increases exponentially, while it is still known as the hot spot for young talented designers. Proceeding from showrooms to the streets, it has reached a consensus that only in London, on those treasonous hippy streets can you find the most dramatic style!

pics credit by

Tommy Ton @ Style.com

Victoria Adamson @ NY Magazine The Cute

Phil Oh @ Vogue.com

www.nyanzi.com

Dita Von Teese at BURBERRY PRORSUM

Alexa Chung

PRADA Skirt & Clutch

Hanneli Mustaparta

3.1 Phillip Lim Sweaters

Louis Vuitton Bag and Jil Sander Dress

Tiffany Hsu in GIVENCHY sweater & Liger Skirt at Lane Crawford

Jessica Stein and Nicole Warne

Kate Foley in Opening Ceremony Printed Jacket & Olympia Bag

While anti-Japan riots continue on intimate terms in China, our queen of fashion Miuccia Prada has accomplished presenting her Spring 2013 Ready-to-wear collection, which extensively contains Japanese-style elements to the world. "Dream is forbidden, nostalgia is forbidden, to be too sweet is not good. Everything we used to feel historically, now you can't enjoy. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream." Miuccia Prada said so.

A black satin coat, meanwhile, was embroidered with papery origami blossoms. Still, the collection had a spareness that worked like a balm after seasons of endless prints, moving from dark to light.

There was POETRY to the collection, but walking the runway in either towering Harajuku girl platforms or leather judo socks bound with patent leather bows—flats in both cases, Prada pointed out—the models exuded power too. Leave it to Miuccia to tweak nostalgia into something that felt modern and new.

pics from Style.com

Sunday, September 16, 2012

Runway: Chic Monochrome Men: Carlos Campos Spring 2013

The key to Carlos Campos's Spring 2013 collection: monochrome everything. Turquoise on turquoise on turquoise, along with body-spanning mustard, cream, and blogger blue outfits. Also consistent were the slim silhouettes, spanning perfectly-tailored jackets, parkas, and trousers. Mix 'n' match, or, you know, just match.For those who are not confident in colors or patterns match or willing to wear outfits lively fashionable or chic but not too exaggerating to be seen, the collection wisely provides you a span-new concept of Mix 'n' match.

pics from GQ.com

Judas' picks: Favorite of the 2013 Spring RTW New York Fashion Week - Runways

pics from style.com

Alexander Wang Mere seconds after the overheads dimmed toward the end of the show and the black lights switched on to reveal that the models' white clothes glowed an electric shade of yellow, Twitterers took to their iPhones to share their pictures. Wang is just about as It as you can get in New York fashion at the moment, and he delivered on his reputation, sending out a focused Spring collection that put his strong, singular vision on display. A powerful PERFORMANCE it is!

BCBG Max Azria Lengths were relatively long, even where they were sliced into high slits; the interplay of sheers and embroidery let snips of bare flesh show through. Those dresses themselves, fluttering and ethereal, some sporting cape backs and leather details, should be RECOGNIZABLE to BCBG's cadre of fans. The workwear element introduced by chambray blouses and oversize jackets in silk cotton canvas, less so, even if fashion watchers may sniff references to other collections.

LOUISE GOLDIN The collection itself has a certain clinical space age sporty vibe. In a color palette of sandy gold, teal and crisp white, the designer played with layers of color blocking in easy knit pieces that looked like you could just slip them on and walk out the door.

LACOSTE From what showed up on the runway it seemed like Felipe Oliveira Baptista took real pleasure in playing with those prints. So to a thumping backbeat of tennis balls being thwack across a court, he showed a series of clever repetitive prints. Full cut trousers, oversized t-shirts, and that perennial urban favorite- the jogging suit- all made their way down the pristine white catwalk.It’s a testament to Baptista’s talent that he was even able to make fanny packs look stylish. This collection was a SERIOUS love match.

THOM BROWNE In a Fashion Week where multiple designers’ shows are often double—or triple—booked every hour on the hour, how does one STAND out? Just ask Thom Browne.

And water runs downstream. His spring women’s show, held at the New York Public Library, was not only a continuation of the men’s show he staged in Paris, but true performance art. “Thom needs a museum show,” was the comment heard from more than one guest.

PROENZA SCHOULER This collection certainly was EDGY- energetic too.The designer Frenetic really, in its use of hard city colors like fire engine red, acid green, neon blue and oil slick black that came in a patchwork mash up of textural fabrics on sporty shift dresses, boxy jackets cut from glossy leathers and snakeskin or low slung photo print skirts.

Ralph Lauren All the elements were there—beaded boleros, organza vests with gold embroidery and embellished jodhpur pants, festive fedoras, colorful silk scarves worn around the necks and even a rose on the hip.

Jeremy Scott One NEVER really knows what to expect at a Jeremy Scott show. Superb as it has always been.

also including Rag & Bone, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Calvin Klein Collection...

Street Style: Spring 2013 RTW New York Fashion Week

The Spring 2013 RTW New York Fashion Week has just given the world an unforgettable end. Thanks to our outstanding photographers waiting outside the showroom, those superb style and moments were captured to eternal. Here are the best collections of them all.

pics by Tommy Ton, Phil Oh, and Youngjun Koo